Ziplining in Ketchikan..should you do it?

I've talked to several tourists this summer who have simply raved about the zipline (many of whom claimed they were scared of heights). But I must say, I'm not surprised that people who are scared of heights still enjoy the zipline. For one, you are always attached to a cable; even on the suspension bridges. And the cables are strong enough to hold a MAC truck! So if you're 20 pounds overweight, and think that the cables will snap because of a little (or a lot) of cottage cheese on your thighs, think again.

I got the chance to go ziplining several weeks ago. It was such an awesome experience. I went at the very beginning of the cruise ship season, so I got a discounted "local" rate which made the experience even better! I got there fairly early and had some of their complimentary hot chocolate. We hopped in the military style Mercedes 4x4's and drove up a really steep section of the woods. The crew showed us how to put on our gear and we did a practice "zip."

In order to zip, there are minimum and maximum weight requirements, but they are pretty flexible if you don't quite meet their specifications. It's not like the weight police shows up with a scale...they take you at your word. There were people of all ages, sizes, and weight in my group. There was a 13 year old boy who was there with his parents. There was also a group of friends celebrating someone's 50th birthday. My dad got the chance to zip when he came to visit (he is 61 and slightly overweight). I think he enjoyed it more than me!

If I remember correctly, we zipped across 6 lines and walked across 3 suspension bridges. At first I was taken back by how high off the ground I was. But after the first zip, I was completely comfortable standing on a wooden plank high in the treetops...it's not as scary as it sounds, I promise! After the final zip, I had a choice to either walk down stairs that led to the ground, or repel down a post to the ground. I chose to repel. Why not? I was a professional zipliner by this point!

I highly suggest the zipline for all ages, sizes, and weight. It's great fun and an awesome way to spend time with family and friends.

Ketchikan Fishing

I must admit that I have never been an avid fisherman. However, it is difficult to fully integrate into Ketchikan society without at least learning the lingo and venturing out for a few fishing expeditions. After all, Ketchikan does claim to be the salmon capital of the world.
My wife and I have made it out fishing a few times and ended up having a lot of fun and even learned a little bit at the same time! The most popular fish species found in the area include all species of salmon, halibut, red snapper, cod, sea bass, and trout. If I am missing any that you are aware, please let me know and I will add them to the list.

The great thing about Ketchikan is that there are a large number of charter boats that will take you out fishing at a great price. If that is not your cup of tea, you can also rent poles from several locations and fish right from the Creek Street Bridge in downtown or venture south to Herring Cove. I have fished from Herring Cove, but prefer going out with friends to troll for King or Silver salmon. Popular trolling areas close to town include the Clover Pass area north of town and the Mountain Point area south of town. Of course there are endless other great locations within a short boat ride away which will get you away from the crowds.

Listed below is some more detailed information on the species found near Ketchikan and when you will have the best chance of catching one.

1. Salmon

a. King Salmon
Since arriving in Ketchikan it has been easy to figure out that these are the most sought after variety of salmon found in the area. From what I can determine, most fishermen catch these in salt water from shore or from a boat. June seems to be the best month, but I did catch a King on Friday night (although had to throw it back due to size).

b. Coho Salmon (Silver)
These are also highly sought after in the area. The Coho are smaller than the Kings, and according to Alaska Dep’t of Fish and Game, usually weigh between 3 - 20 pounds, with the average somewhere in the vicinity of 8 - 10 pounds. You can usually find them between July and September. I was able to catch a few of these last summer and I can tell you that they are exciting to catch since they seem to put up a fight. I caught one by trolling close to the surface from a boat and caught another by simply casting with a lure.

c. Sockeye Salmon (Red)
Unfortunately, I have not caught any of these in the area and I believe they are not found in the same abundance as the other species of salmon. I will give an update in the future when I am more informed on Sockeye fishing near Ketchikan.

d. Pink Salmon (Humpy)
These seem to be the most abundant type of salmon found near Ketchikan and therefore have been the type I have caught most frequently (even though I have been out only a limited number of times). I was trolling from a boat each time I caught these, but have seen other catch them from simply casting a lure. The Alaska Dep’t of Fish and Game states that Pink Salmon live about 2 years and weigh 3 pounds on average. I have noticed that many lifelong Alaskans will thrown these fish back in favor of other species. However, I have kept the ones I caught and find them to taste pretty good with some Caribbean jerk marinade or salmon rub. I do of course prefer the texture and taste of King or Coho, but still like the taste of the Pinks.

e. Chum Salmon (dog)
The Chum Salmon is another variety that I have yet to catch. I do not know much about them but I do know they are found in the area and have heard friends say that they prefer they prefer these over Pinks.


2. Halibut
Halibut are considered a bottom fish and are also abundant in the waters surrounding Ketchikan. Halibut has white colored delicate meat that I really like. It can be quite a workout reeling one of these bad boys up from the depths, but the payoff is usually a large fillet with great taste. The Alaska Dep’t of Fish and Game mentions that Halibut can live for more than 20 years and a few in excess of 300 pounds have been caught in the area. I actually caught one of these last summer while attempting to catch salmon at a more shallow depth. Apparently this is not uncommon, but they are usually found at deeper depths.


3. Trout
Trout are another species of fish found in the local Ketchikan waters that I have not yet had the pleasure of catching. From what I have heard they are located in both fresh and salt water. I know there are both Cutthroat and Rainbow (with Steelhead considered a type of “sea run” rainbow). Once I go out and fish for these this summer or fall I will follow up with my finding. If you are more familiar with trout fishing in Ketchikan please follow up with some comments for our readers.

There are also many other types of fish found in the area that I have not yet caught. As I mentioned above, I am not a die-hard fisherman, but am definitely starting to enjoy it more and understand why others swear by it as a form of therapy. As I learn more, I will be sure to update the information I have provided above and let you know what you can expect if you come visit or move here in the future. Also, if you are a local or more familiar with fishing in the area, please let me know if I have missed any crucial information or misstated anything. My main goal here is to give people and general overview of what they will likely be fishing for or what they can expect to catch. 　

Ketchikan Tour Options

If you are visiting Ketchikan, there are several things to see no matter what your budget may be. If the sky is the limit and money is no object, then lucky you! As for the rest of you, I have suggested several tours/activities at different price ranges. Hopefully you will find the perfect way to spend the day in Ketchikan.

Very Inexpensive:

Tongass Historical Museum~$2 admission
The museum is a five minute walk from the cruise ship docks. It is right next to the Ketchikan Public Library. There are many interesting artifacts and old photo collections. The exhibits change quarterly. I've seen two of the four exhibits and have been impressed both times. It's a great way to learn about Ketchikan's history.

Discovery Center~$5 admission
The Discovery Center has four different exhibits. Each exhibit explains different types of information about South East Alaska. One exhibit explains the Native Tlingit, Haida, and Tsimshian's history and survival skills in South East Alaska. Another, explains different types of wildlife. All four exhibits are very detailed with excellent visuals. The Discovery Center also has a great book store and offers a complimentary 15 minute movie explaining Alaska's wildlife. I went to the Discovery Center a few weeks ago when my parents came to visit. I was very pleased with all of the wonderful information at such a great price.

Inexpensive:

The Great Alaskan Lumberjack Show~$34 Adult $17 Child
This show is very entertaining for all ages. The Lumberjack's compete with eachother and really do a great job of getting the audience involved. There is complimentary popcorn and fun music.

Alaska Amphibious Tours (Duck Tour)~$38 Adult $24 Child
The Duck Tour is another tour that is fun for all ages (especially great for families). If you want to sit, relax, and enjoy a guided tour of Ketchikan, then this tour is for you. The tour takes you to Creek Street. The upbeat tour guides explain the unique history of Ketchikan. After that, the bus/boat drives into the Tongass Narrows harbor. It's a tour that is the best of both worlds...land and sea!

Moderate/Expensive:

Kayaking Tours~approx $149
There are several different companies who offer kayaking tours. It is a great way to be active and get away from the crowds. There are excellent photo opportunities as well. You also have a great chance of running into orca whales!

Alaska Canopy Adventures~$169
I did this tour a few months ago and had a blast. You start the tour by riding an old Mercedes 4x4 up into the mountain. After listening to the demonstrations, you do one practice "mini-zip" across the cable line. This allows you to get a feel for how to stop and slow down. After that, your next "zip" is extremely high into the tree tops (if you are scared of heights, this excursion may not be for you). But, you are ALWAYS hooked up to the lines, so even though you are hundreds of feet in the air, it is still very safe throughout the entire excursion. After the tour you can purchase a picture of your final zip for about $20.

Misty Fjords Sea Plane Tour~approx $229
This tour is one of the more expensive tours offered in Ketchikan. If you are willing to pay the price, then prepare to be amazed. The Fjords are beautiful and the water is crystal clear. The aerial views are amazing! Depending on the time of day, there is a good chance you will see bears too. This tour will by far leave you with the most memories.

One Day in Ketchikan

If you only have one day in Ketchikan I would recommend that you at least make your way over to Creek Street. If you are walking from the cruise ship docks you can even stop by Fat Stan's (found in the Salmon Landing building next to the "Fish House") on the way and grab a cold pint!

The reason I recommend Creek Street as the main attraction is because, in my mind, it is the one stop shop for those interested in a little Ketchikan history. There are also many great tours offered, so if you have time you should fit in both an excursion and a tour of Creek Street.

So what is Creek Street? Creek Street contains a collection of historic buildings built on pilings over Ketchikan Creek, which also happens to have a decent salmon run. However, the real appeal of the buildings is that they originally housed a number of brothels that catered to the local men. If I remember correctly, these "establishments" were not shut down until the early 1950's.

Nowadays, the buildings are used for a variety of purposes such as shops, cafes, apartments, museums, etc. If you are interested in learning more about the history of the area I would recommend that you check out Dolly's House near the entrance to Creek Street. Dolly's House is the location of where one of the more famous Ketchikan prostitutes lived and worked for many years. It's really interesting if you are at all an Alaska history buff.

After checking out Dolly's House you should take a walk down the boardwalk and eventually make your way to the tram that takes you up to the Cape Fox Lodge. They have a great restaurant with an equally great view. After lunch, take the tram back down and continue down the Creek until you end up on Married Man's Trail. As you can probably guess from the name, this "trail" provided Ketchikan's men a more secretive and discrete entrance to Creek Street. It winds around the Creek and offers several photo opportunities and a little waterfall. Once you make your way to the end of the trail you will end on Park Avenue where you can swing a left a walk back through downtown.

That's it and don't be afraid to go walk around even if it is raining! Rain is just a part of this town and you will experience the real Ketchikan. Plus, you will have a chance to escape the crowds!

Sarah Palin Resigns

It seems that before August of 2008 no one in the lower 48 paid much attention to the happenings of Alaska or Sarah Palin. Understandably so, I mean when I lived in Florida I certainly didn't care one bit about what was going on in Alaska..."Everyone lives in igloos, right?" Yeah, right.

But since her speech last week announcing that she will step down as governor, my friends and family (all live in the lower 48 by the way) kept asking me..."Why?" Well folks, sorry to disappoint you, but I don't know. Yes, I am a resident of Alaska, but I'm not on the "up and up" with the Palin family.

But I do know one thing--Ketchikan locals had plenty of things to say about it. Many people in our small town were a little shocked by her speech and were left scratching their heads. Some were disappointed and sad to see her go. Others rejoiced at her resignation and got some sort of sick pleasure from it! You see, many "Ketchikanites" were really hoping for that "Bridge to Nowhere" everyone in Congress was fussing about in late 2008. I guess you could say that many Ketchikan locals were more than a little bummed out when the project fell through. Some locals blamed Palin for the whole fiasco, and I suppose are still a little bitter about the whole thing.

I for one am still in shock and don't know what to think. I have the same questions as everyone else. "Is she doing this because she wants to make more money? Does she want to have the freedom to do speeches and promote her book? Is she planning on running in 2012? Is she done with politics altogether?"

Who knows. Hey, maybe our new governor will give us that bridge that we've been waiting for...?

Moving to Alaska

I know there are a lot of people out there who have thought about moving to Alaska but do not know how to take the first step. In this post I will tell you how my wife and I made the move from South Florida and how it is easier than you think. Although I’m sure that depends on whether you ask me or my wife considering I flew up to start work early and she drove up with her mom!

No, but seriously. If you and your family enjoy the outdoors, don’t mind a smaller town (Ketchikan & vicinity has approx. 15,000 people), and can deal with Alaska’s geographical location, then come on up.

Here are some of the issues and questions we dealt with during our move:

1. Should we fly or drive? Well, we did both. As mentioned above, I flew up as I needed to start work and my wife drove up with her mom. The drive from Boca Raton, Florida to Anchorage Alaska was approximately 5,000 miles and took about a week. Of course we happened to live on the total opposite end of the country so the drive for you will probably be much shorter. In addition, if you plan to move to Ketchikan or somewhere in SE Alaska (highly recommended), where we ended up, you will need to take the Alaska State Ferry up from Bellingham, Washington. This will greatly reduce your driving time, as opposed to taking the Alcan Highway through Canada. If you do plan on moving to somewhere outside of SE Alaska you will need to take the Alcan Highway through British Columbia and the Yukon, Canada. The drive is amazing and is a great experience in itself. My wife has pictures of all kinds of animals seen from the side of the road. Although beware of the bugs in summer!

One other thing I should mention is that if you sell your car and fly up be prepared to pay slightly more for buying a new car. As you have probably guessed, cars are barged up from the lower 48 and for that reason demand a premium. I bought a new Jeep Compass when I arrived in Anchorage. I probably paid a little more than I would have in Florida but it was worth it since I needed to be in Alaska relatively quickly and the fact that we were able to keep my wife’s car once she drove up.

2. What about jobs? As I am writing this post, the unemployment rate in the lower 48 is approaching 10%. For comparison purposes the unemployment rate statewide in Alaska is 8.1% and as low as 7% in Ketchikan (May 2009). I can’t speak for the whole state but I do know there is a lack of qualified workers in Ketchikan and that it would not be too difficult to find a job. Of course this depends on your vocational field, but there are jobs available. Fortunately, I moved to Ketchikan for my job and my wife is a teacher so she was able to find employment as a 3rd grade teacher relatively easily.

3. How do we move our belongings? Luckily for us we were fresh out of school and did not have much in the way of furniture or other large items. Unfortunately, we did have a condo we owned with some furniture which we decided to rent out and leave for the tenant.

If you do have a lot of furniture I would suggest that you sell it and buy new stuff once you get to Alaska (unless you are fortunate enough to find an employer willing to pay for your move). We researched the idea of taking a Uhaul up the Alcan highway, but the cost was outrageous and trust me you don’t want to drive a Uhaul the entire length of that highway. Although, most of the Alcan is in tip top shape there are some areas in The Yukon that have been ravaged by frost heaves. It is a roller coaster ride. Or at least it was during our last trip through there in March, 2008.

Now if you are moving to SE Alaska you might want to look into shipping your belongings up on a barge. Ketchikan is relatively close to Seattle and I don’t believe it is prohibitively expensive. You can also rent a Uhaul and drive it right on to the state ferry. When we moved down from Anchorage we drove our Uhaul to Haines, Alaska and then took the ferry down to Ketchikan. Although, be warned that the state ferry will charge you quite a bit for taking such a large vehicle. Fortunately my employer paid for the cost but I believe it was around $1,500 (including a private room) for the ferry alone.

4. Will we miss the amenities found in a larger city, i.e., Ft. Lauderdale? I can confidently say that there are not many things that I did in South Florida that I can’t do here in Ketchikan. Of course if you are into big nightclubs and the glitzy lifestyle you will not find that here, but otherwise there are plenty of options to stay busy. We have a handful of wonderful restaurants, a movie theater, public transportation, recreation center with racquet ball, basketball, gym, etc., community swimming pool, numerous bars, three real grocery stores, and plenty of shops. Although I must admit that I purchase my work dress clothes down south or over the internet. There are several local options but I am picky when it comes to my work clothes.

5. Since we are from FL will we be able to handle the weather? To be honest I was expecting the weather to be worse and much colder. In Ketchikan winter temperatures usually stay in the 25 – 40 degree range with the occasional snow/rain shower (ok maybe more than occasional). This past winter we got dumped on with a couple feet of snow but I am told this is extremely rare for this part of the state. The usual is that it will snow and then the snow will be washed away by rain within a few following days.

Of course if you plan to venture into the rest of the state you can expect much colder temperatures in the winter and much less precipitation. For instance, when we lived in Anchorage we frequently saw the temperature dip below 0. The coldest temperature I ever felt in Anchorage was -22 degrees, but it gets much colder than that in the interior of the state. Apparently Fairbanks witnesses the occasional -40 degree temps.

For us the main issue ended up being the darkness in the winter. It is not as bad as a lot of people would think, but it does get dark by 3:30 pm during the middle of December. When you couple this with the amount of precipitation we receive in Ketchikan it can be quite a psychological experience. However, I should mention that once December is over daylight hours start increasing by almost 5 minutes per day. Before you know it is light out until 9 or 10 o’clock and then you can catch up on all of the light lost!

6. Do we have the guts to actually do it? This was almost our killer. Sometimes I think back and still can’t believe we actually picked up our stuff and made the move. Yes it was stressful, and a HUGE change from what we were used to, but I am still glad we took the plunge. Living in Alaska is almost like taking a step back in time. I don’t think a day does by where I don’t still stop to look at something that amazes me. You only live once and I like to think that I will take advantage of every opportunity I can…or at least every opportunity that my wife approves!

Common Questions About Ketchikan

During my time off as a teacher this summer, I've been earning some extra income as a server. Although waiting tables is not the most glamorous of jobs, one thing I do enjoy is chit-chatting with tourists from the cruise ships. Tourists are fun to talk to because they are excited to be in our quaint little town and are (usually) in a good mood. Here are the most common questions I get when chatting with out-of-towners...

1. Is it daylight 24 hours a day in the summer?
~No, in the summer the sun eventually goes down around 10:30 or so. But if you go further north (Fairbanks), then you will not see the sun go down in the summer.

2. Is it dark all winter?
~No, the sun sets around 3:30 in December. It is hard to get used to--by 4:30 I am ready for bed!

3. How much does a gallon of milk cost?
~Well, that depends on where you shop. If you shop at Safeway, you can buy a gallon of milk for around $3 a gallon. Some of the smaller stores in town are more expensive--around $6 a gallon.

4. Is the cost of living expensive?
~Yes. If you think you can find a newer home for around $200,000--think again. A newer 3 bedroom 2 bath home will cost you around $300,000. If you are a renter looking to rent a two bedroom, expect to pay around $1100 for something decent. A nicer one bedroom apartment costs anywhere from $850-950/month.

5. Do teachers make a lot of money in Alaska?
~That depends. In Ketchikan? No. The starting salary for a beginning teacher in Ketchikan is around $40,000. Compared to most states, that is a great salary. But if you want to make "big bucks" as a teacher in Alaska, you will have to teach in the "Bush." Those are the small villages in Alaska that are off the road system. The weather is harsh, and groceries and housing is extremely expensive. That is why salaries for teachers is a lot higher in those areas.

6. How much snow do you get in the winter?
~Not as much as you'd think. Ketchikan's weather can be compared (somewhat) to Seattle's weather. RAINY and WINDY. Ketchikan gets about 13 feet of rain per year, so if you're moving here, invest in some Xtra Tuff rain boots and good rain gear. Tourists stick out like sore thumbs in Ketchikan--they use umbrellas!

7. Are the winters brutal?
~Yes. But not because of the temperature. Ketchikan's temperatures in the winter are not bad at all. Chicago's winters are much colder than ours. If you head north to Fairbanks, that is where you will find -40 degree temperatures. The winters in Ketchikan are "brutal" simply because of the never-ending rainy weather. The clouds, wind, sideways rain, and darkness can get to you. Last winter I felt tired all the time. I was also moody and irritable. I am surprised my husband is still married to me! Bless his heart.

Ketchikan Sailing

Today I was driving home on the 3rd Avenue Bypass (which so happens to provide a great view over the Tongass Narrows) wondering what the topic of my next post should be. Just then, I looked over and remembered that Wednesday is race night for the local sailing yacht club. I must say it is a beautiful sight watching all of those sailboats cruising around on such a warm and sunny day.

Most people probably don't realize that Ketchikan is a great town to live in if you enjoy sailing. Yes we do get a lot of rain and nasty weather, but the options available for a sailing enthisiast are absolutey endless. I would imagine that a boater could live here for decades and never see the same place twice. In addition, we have the Misty Fiords National Monument close by as well as numerous small settlements to explore.

Furthermore, if you sail in the area and find the comfort of a land based shelter more appetizing, there are countless Forest Service cabins available in the area that can be reserved on short notice for a small fee. I stayed in one last October (Anchor Pass cabin) during a duck hunting trip with several of my coworkers. It was a simple structure with a wood stove and 4 bunks right on the beach. It was perfect.

So if you have ever dreamed of sailing up to Alaska (or are a sailing enthusiast thinking of moving up) I encourage you to come explore the area around Ketchikan. You will find friendly people and great facilities. Maybe you could join in on a Wednesday night race or drop some crab pots and wait for dinner. Either way will leave you with a smile on your face!

Kayaker Rescued Out of Bering Sea

Now I created this blog to discuss Ketchikan and why people should both visit and move here (so I added a picture of the more favorable kayaking environment found here in SE Alaska) but I just had to bring up this article from the local newspaper that caught my eye.

A Frenchman, who was attempting to round the globe under pure human power was plucked from his kayak in the Bering Sea by the US Coast Guard. Apparently the man had planned to rest approximately halfway across on St. Lawrence Island, but was thrown off course by rough seas and strong currents.

The interesting tidbit about this story is that the 28 year old man had already made it all the way from France before being stopped in his tracks by the notoriously rough waters in between Alaska and Russia. Not only did he ride his bike from Florida to Alaska, but he also kayaked across the entire Atlantic Ocean. This is just one more example of why this area of the globe should never be underestimated.

Although the adventurer did not succeed in this attempt, I hope he is able to refocus and continue on his journey. After all, he has a bike ride across Siberia to look forward to...

Ketchikan Weather

Just living the dream… another beautiful day in Ketchikan. Sunny, slight breeze, 75 degrees, AND no I am not lying! Am I in San Diego?

With annual rainfall averaging in the vicinity of 160 inches per year, with the record topping out at over 200 inches in one year, it is a rare sight indeed to see such sunny weather. Although, I must admit that we have had exceptional weather this summer. We started off the season with 2 -3 weeks of straight sunshine in April and even managed to hang out on the beach and watch the jet skiers cruise around Clover Pass north of Ketchikan.

Perhaps we have been spoiled with the weather thus far, but hey, after last summer I am of the opinion that we are entitled to at least a few weeks of bliss. Especially after a number of long-time locals have repeatedly mentioned that the 2008 summer season was one of the worst in recent memory.

Either way, Ketchikan has a way of handing out a little nice weather right at the moment when you are starting to wonder why you moved here in the first place. At that moment, when the clouds part and the rain stops, a person is quickly reminded of how lucky they are to call Ketchikan home.